小米窝

原文 http://www.aromatherapylifestyle.com/2010/11/patchouli-essential-oil/

Patchouli Essential Oil Profile

广藿香档案

by Geoff Lyth

Patchouli essential oil (Pogostemon cablin) is unmistakable, and for those of a certain generation its sweet earthy aroma will often trigger happy memories of the 1960’s and early 1970’s. Adopted by the counterculture that began in the USA and quickly swept the western world, patchouli will be forever associated with hippies, psychedelia, Hare Krishna and marijuana; although not necessarily all of those or in that order!

广藿香精油（拉丁名Pogostemon cablin ）是不容易被混淆的，并且对某一特定年代的人来说，它甜泥土般香气通常会唤起人们对60年代及70年代早期的美好回忆。在始于美国并迅速席卷西方国家的反主流文化中，广藿香一直和嬉皮士，幻觉剂，印度教克利须那派及大麻联系在一起——尽管不是所有都这样。

However, this was not the first time in history that the mysterious scent of patchouli had been held in great esteem. Since ancient times the leaves of this fragrant plant have been used throughout Asia and the Far East as a deodorant, an ingredient for incense, and as an effective insect repellent. Arabs and Persians used layers of crushed patchouli leaves to protect their precious hand-made carpets from moths and insects over a thousand years ago.

然而，历史上这并不是第一次，广藿香的神秘香味得到重用。在远古时代，整个亚洲及远东地区都用这种香料植物的叶子作为去除体臭的除臭剂，焚香的配料，以及除虫剂的有效成分。在许多年以前，阿拉伯人及波斯人就用压碎的广藿香的叶子来保护他们珍贵的手工毛毯防止蛾子和虫子的侵袭

Exquisite Indian shawls, fabrics and garments were likewise sprinkled with the leaves, and patchouli was even used as an ingredient in Indian ink. Known as ‘guang huo-xiang’ in ancient China, patchouli was used to perfume the ink for their scrolls too.

精致的印度披肩，织布及服装同样都会被撒上少量的叶子，甚至广藿香被用作印度墨水的配料。中国古代广藿香被用来使他们的卷轴上的墨水充满香气。

Badge of quality

品质的标志

In the early 1800’s, merchants from India, China and the Middle East began transporting large quantities of these expensive carpets and textiles to Europe, where traders learned to recognise the Kashmir shawls and other Indian items as genuine by the distinctive aroma the crushed patchouli leaves had imparted. The mysterious and exotic fragrance of these highly sought after articles quickly became a badge of quality for customers too, though at the time nobody knew where the fragrance originated.

在17世纪早期，来自印度，中国及中东的零售商开始将大量的昂贵毯子和织品运输到欧洲， 贸易商人学会通过识别压广藿香碎叶的独特香味，来辨别羊绒披肩及其他印度制品的真伪。（Kashmir 老外把含羊绒的东西都叫做kashmir, 不是光指开司米绒线）。这些备受青睐的物品上的神秘而富有异域情调的香气，成为了顾客们识别品质的标识，不过当时人们并不知道该香气从何而来。

During the 1850’s, French manufacturers discovered the source of the aroma and began importing patchouli leaves to fragrance their own shawls which were then passed off as genuine Indian produce. Soon afterwards, this practice spread to the textile mills of northern Britain, and genuine English ‘Cashmere’ was born!

在17世纪50年代，法国制造商发现了这种芳香的源头，并且开始进口广藿香叶子来使他们自己的披肩拥有这种香味，去仿冒真正的印度制品。之后不久，这种尝试在英国北边的织物作坊中传开，真正的英国羊绒诞生了。

General description

大致描述

Belonging to the Lamiaceae family, Pogostemon cablin is a bushy, herbaceous perennial shrub that reaches up to 1.5 metres in height with erect quadrangular stems and aromatic leaves that are often quite large for the size of the plant. Depending on the cultivar, the broadly ovate coarsely serrated leaves grow 5-10 cm in length and 2.5-8 cm wide, and are the source of the essential oil.

广藿香属于唇形科，是一种多年生草本灌木，茎四方直立，株可高达1.5米， 相对其高度，广藿香的叶片显得很大。根据栽培品种的不同，叶长5-10厘米，宽2.5-8厘米，为宽大卵形，边缘呈粗糙锯齿状。它们是精油的来源。

Patchouli grows in China, Brazil, India, Indonesia, Madagascar, Malaysia, Philippines, Russia, Seychelles, Taiwan and Vietnam. Despite oil being produced in most of these countries, the finest oil producing areas are confined to Sumatra and Aceh in Indonesia and Mahé in the Seychelles.

广藿香生长在中国，巴西，印度，印度尼西亚，马达加斯加，马来西亚，菲律宾，俄罗斯，塞舌尔，台湾及越南。尽管有这么多地方盛产广藿香精油，但是最佳的产地是苏门答腊，印度尼西亚的亚齐省及塞舌尔的mahe。

Traditional uses

传统用法

In the Philippines and Malaysia crushed leaves and roots were infused and applied to arthritic and rheumatic joints, and used for painful menstrual cramps. A decoction of leaves was taken orally to treat asthma, coughs, colds and painful urination, whilst a poultice of leaves would be used to treat headaches and boils. Traditional Indian and Chinese medicine recommended patchouli to treat conditions such as abdominal pain, bad breath, colds, diarrhoea, dysentery, flu, fevers, headaches, nausea and vomiting.

在菲律宾及马来西亚，粉碎的叶子和根的浸泡液运用于关节炎及关节风湿，也用于缓解痛经。叶子煎熬的汁水口服可用来治疗哮喘，咳嗽，感冒及小便灼痛，同时叶子制成的膏药可以用来治疗头痛及皮下囊肿。传统的印度及中国医学推荐用广藿香治疗腹痛，呼吸不畅，感冒，腹泻，痢疾，流感，发烧，头痛，恶心反胃呕吐。

Due to its strong fixative properties, unique aroma, and the fact there is no synthetic equivalent, patchouli is irreplaceable in the perfumery industry where it is used to create oriental bases, Fougeres and Chypres. It is also used widely in air fresheners, soft and alcoholic drinks, deodorants, laundry detergents, skin care and soaps.

由于它有着非常稳定的固着剂的特性，独特的芳香，以及无法人工合成等同品，在香水制造业中，广藿香无可取代地被用来调制东方情调的基底香，馥香，和西普林香。 它也被广泛地用在空气清新剂，软性酒精饮料，身体除臭剂，洗衣房里的织物洗涤剂，护肤品和香皂。

Harvesting and extraction

收获和萃取

Patchouli is often grown on small plots in remote areas where harvesting is usually done by hand using just scissors or knives. After cutting, the leaves are sun, or preferably shade dried on bamboo racks for about 3 days since distilling fresh leaves produces poor quality oil. Finally, the leaves are either distilled on site in a rudimentary fashion using direct-fired field stills, or baled and transported to a modern distillery for processing.

广藿香通常是长在偏远地区的小块土地上，人们通常只是用剪刀或小刀去收割。在收割之后，叶子直接放在太阳底下晒，或者能在荫凉处放在竹架上阴干3天是更好，因为蒸馏新鲜的叶子出产的精油品质差。最终，这些叶子当场在直接加热的蒸馏器中蒸馏，或者打包送到现代化的蒸馏厂去加工处理。

Steam distillation yields a dark orange-brown essential oil with a unique and complex aroma. A good quality patchouli oil should be rich, sweet herbaceous, aromatic spicy with earthy, root-like undertones. Freshly distilled patchouli has musty dry notes that are replaced by a fruity or wine-like top note after maturing.

蒸汽蒸馏出来的藿香油是一种深棕橘色精油，带有独特而复杂的气味。质量好的广藿香精油应该有一种浑厚的，带有草本甜味及辛辣味的芳香，底调泥土气息浓厚。刚蒸馏出来的广藿香有一种陈腐味，在发酵成熟之后就会被一种类似果味或红酒的香味所替代。（查了一下资料，广藿香是陈放的时间越久，气味越香甜，作用效果也越好）

Uses in aromatherapy

芳香理疗上的应用

Patchouli excels in skin care where it soothes, rejuvenates, moisturises and tones a diverse range of problem skin-type conditions such as acne, athletes foot, chapped & cracked skin, cellulite, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, fungal infections, scars, thread veins, wounds and wrinkles.

广藿香擅长于皮肤护理，它具有舒缓，激活，保湿，恢复柔韧的效果，可以用于各种皮肤状况，比如粉刺，脚气，粗糙龟裂的皮肤，橘皮组织，头皮屑，皮炎，湿疹，真菌引起的感染，疤痕，细纹，伤口和皱纹。

It works effectively on the emotional system too, helping to stabilize and ground negative emotions such as anxiety, excessive mental activity, lack of confidence, insecurity and mood swings. It acts as a stimulant and tonic to nervous system which can be helpful with stress and general burn-out.

广藿香对情绪系统上也很有效，它能够帮助稳定抑制一些消极的情绪，比如焦虑，过度的脑力活动，缺乏信心，不安全感以及情绪波动。它对神经系统有一种刺激和兴奋作用，对一般的压力和精神疲乏都很有帮助。

Classed as a base note, patchouli essential oil blends easily with many others such as bergamot, cedarwood atlas & virginian, clary sage, clove bud, frankincense, geranium, grapefruit, lavender, lemon, lemongrass, lime, litsea cubeba, mandarin, myrrh, neroli, orange, petitgrain, pine, rose, sandalwood, tea tree, vetiver, ylang ylang.

作为一种后调精油，广藿香可以很容易和其他精油混合，比如佛手柑，大西洋雪松，维吉尼亚雪松，快乐鼠尾草，丁香苞，乳香，天竺葵，葡萄柚，薰衣草，柠檬，柠檬香茅，莱姆，山鸡椒精油，桔子，没药，橙花，甜橙，苦橙叶，松木，玫瑰，檀香木，茶树，香根草，依兰依兰。